Doomsday Preppers List of Supplies

What is a good supply list for doomsday?

 

exactly, plus I would add SKILLS and KNOWLEDGE, these things cannot be taken away from you and will last a lifetime.

 

leaving your home to go to a place of safety.

 

what do you want to know?
first thing is not to panic,nothing is going to happen today, or tomorrow or next week, maybe not even next month, there is still time.
whatever you do, no matter how little you may think you have done, you are still ahead of all those millions and millions of people, here in the UK, who have done absolutely nothing at all.

 

check this out: http://besurvival.com/guides/are-you-prepared

 

Food water shelter main concerns when where how are importain choices the choices are yours basic bag candles fire maker first aid kit water purifer blankets

 

Allso need cook kit. Soap and clean towels wash colth clothing enough for youself and anyone going with you food can goods. Work but are heavy

 

Unlless its a must leave my place due to total desruction im not going anywhere we can hold out here for a long time and will go unnoticed and overlooked by most people coming in on us nomads will be few

 

yep, same here.

 

Al a good freind has a plane. we have hidden our place well it isnt very noticeable from the air and with no trouble the road in can be made closed with landslide

 

i'm not worried about airplanes or visitors, my main problem is smoke and cooking smells.
post SHTF I don't expect many people to have stayed or survived.

 

I've got about a dozen gas(and I don't mean petrol) stoves for the hunker down period, then I go onto my wood burning stove once the die off has started.
there isn't a heck of a lot I can do about the cooking smells though.
I suppose we can eat stuff cold for awhile if necessary.

 

i'm on the edge of a small rural town, half a mile up the road and i'm in the next parish.
most people here are townies and commute to work 30 miles away, in a serious emergency half of them wont make it back here in one piece and those that are left will probably leave once the local shop is empty.
i'll be bugging in unless I am forced to leave by flood(not likely) or fire(always a possibility), too far from any big city-hundreds of miles and many weeks walk-to be too concerned about outsiders.
I have several BOL's scouted and located, but will only use them in extreme circumstances.

 

Not bad but someone could see whats there and get there first its not bad idea i just worry on how secure it is

 

Water does not store well !

 

depends how you store it, in a cool dark place is always the recommendation.

 

Been getting these alerts from survival site or repper site warning of water stored in milk jugs not as safe shelf life as they said at first i really just glaced at it but water from one spring gets green after a few days where water from little hickory spring stores better and longer i know this from years of use of them And. If it came from sisters well it stayed clear longer

 

milk containers are not recommended as no matter how much one washes it out some of the milk residue will remain and it will pollute the water, if you keep it in anything other than food grade containers the water should be removed and the container refreshed with clean water about every 6 months.

 

I used 55 gal apple juice plastic drums got from ohio school they worked great had all the hardware on them to use as i got them still use 3 in my system. They serve me well

 

I get the same sort of container from local farms and industrial estate, we mostly use them for water for the garden, drinking water I store in 5gallon water containers, I also store some of those 1 gallon water bottles you get in supermarkets.

 

I have 3 in se corner of house in attic we allways have water as it comes down pipe gets smaller this gives it more pressure at outlets

 

if you keep water in an attic you have to be careful of the weight and weight distribution.

 

Its well supported on 10x10 beams of oak i made this place heavey thick and well build yes its alot of weight 2x6planks are the floor but never had trouble with this system

 

you've got it covered then, in the UK attics are very flimsy and wont support much weight.

 

This is a list of equipment & supplies that I carry in Historical Trekking, this is also my survival gear.
Keith.
Equipment List.

· .62 cal/20 gauge flintlock fusil. 42 inch barrel.

· .70 caliber smoothbore flintlock pistol.

· Shot pouch and contents.

· Leather drawstring pouch of .60 caliber ball (in knapsack).

· Powder horn.

· Butcher/Hunting knife.

· Legging knife.

· Clasp knife.

· Tomahawk.

· Fire bag.

· Tinderbox.

· Belt pouch.

· Fishing tackle in brass container.

· Two brass snares.

· Roll of brass snare wire.

· 3 Gunpowder wallets

· Knapsack.

· Scrip.

· Ball mould and swan shot mould.

· Lead ladle.

· Tin Cup.

· Water filter bags (cotton & linen bags).

· Medical pouch.

· Housewife.

· Piece of soap and a broken ivory comb.

· Dried foods in bags.

· Wooden spoon.

· Gun tools and spare springs.

· Compass.

· Whet stone.

· Small metal file.

· Oilcloth.

· One blanket (Monmouth cap, spare wool waistcoat and wool shirt rolled inside blanket).

· Two glass saddle flasks.

· Length of hemp rope.

· Bottle of rum.

Basic list of what I carry. This list is made up from items that we know were carried, from items that my research has shown were available, & from items that have been found, such as the brass snare wire. I am not saying every woodsrunner carried all these items, but I am saying that some woodsrunners may have carried all these items. From experimental archaeology results in historical trekking, I think the items I have chosen are a reasonable choice for any woodsrunner that is going to live in the wilderness for a year or more.

 

Very aware of firearms. Never heard of cal you have besidewith what is on market as to gunswhy carry muzzleloader with all the trouble that they are ?

 

I am not aware of the trouble that you refer to Tom, one does have to acquire some knowledge & skills in order to be able to use one to its best advantage, but skills learning is important, & in this case well worth while. I assume you have not read my other post on muzzle-loading guns, I will post it here for you. If you have any questions, do ask.
Regards, Keith.

Advantages of a Flintlock Muzzle-loader.

1) Ammo is less expensive than a modern equivalent caliber firearm.

2) The smoothbore is very versatile, being able to digest round ball, bird shot, & buckshot, or any combination of two of these (can also use minies).

3) The fusil is lighter to carry than a modern equivalent sized gun.

4) You can vary the load if needs be.

5) The smoothbore will digest other projectiles besides lead.

6) Lead can be retrieved from downed game & remoulded with a simple mould & lead ladle. This means that you can carry less lead, & more of the lighter gunpowder.

7) You can make your own gunpowder.

8) You can use the lock to make fire without the need for gunpowder.

9) You can use gunpowder for gunpowder tinder fire lighting if needs be.

10) IF the lock should malfunction (these are very robust & it is not likely) you can easily repair it if you are carrying a few spare springs & a few simple tools.

11)If you do not have any spare parts & the lock malfunctions, you can easily convert it to a tinderlock or matchlock & continue using it.

12) You do not need a reloader, brass shells, caps, or primers. The latter have been known to break down in damp conditions or if they are stored for too long.

13) Wadding for ball or shot is available from natural plant materials or homemade leather or rawhide.

14) Less chance of being affected by future ammunition control legislation.

15) Gunpowder is easily obtainable providing you have a muzzle-loader registered in your name regardless of caliber (only NSW is looking at this legislation at present).

16) A .32 caliber flintlock rifle is more powerful than a .22 rimfire, less expensive to feed, more accurate over a greater distance, able to take small & medium sized game, & other than not being able to use shot (unless it is smoothbore), it has all the attributes of the other flintlocks.

17) Damage from a .62 caliber-.75 caliber pistol or long arm is in the extreme. Wounded prey is unlikely to escape.

18) By using buck & ball you are unlikely to miss your target. This load is capable of taking out more than one target.

19) There is less kick-back to a muzzle-loading gun.

20) Antique Flintlock muzzle-loading guns do not require a license, registration, or a permit to purchase in NSW Australia.

 

Loading lumited to one shot then reload as it get dirtty it becomes harder to reload. Dont allways go off even dry wet very hard to get to go off with new weapons they easy to use makeing muzzleloaader a poor choice for most better choice ak 47 the most common weapon in world

 

Yes I thought this was the case, you are obviously not very knowledgeable regarding muzzle-loading guns, other than what you have read. The advantages which I have already stated above (which I am sure you have read), outweigh the disadvantages of the modern firearm. You have obviously already made up your mind, so I see no point in further discussion on this Tom. I recommend you stick with your modern firearms.
Best of luck.
Keith.

 

There is one thing missing from your gun kit for your muzzleloader that serves two jobs it waterproofs gun and aids in loading its BEESWAX LUBE FOR LOADING AND WATERPROOFS PAN

 

No Tom, not missing, · Shot pouch and contents. My tallow container is carried in the shot pouch, along with other needed items that are also not listed. I don't need it for loading Tom, I use a smoothbore, not a rifle, & if I was using a rifle I would be using patch material already greased. The shot pouch contents also include a greased leather lock cover (sometimes referred to as a cows knee lock cover).
Keith.

Shot pouch & some of its contents.

Here you can see my brass tallow container just above the turnscrew.

 

Send me a load how much powder to push that ball ?

 

I use 60 grains of 2F in the fusil Tom, & 25 grains of 2F for the pistol.

 

Thats a light load to push a ball or maxi after50 yards wouldnt be hitting hard or true