Some Knife Info For Newcomers To Prepper World

https://gearjunkie.com/best-tactical-knife


Good morning newcomers and also any oldcomers,

Link has a series of some mini-articles on knives. Pictures real good. Basic terms are explained such as the contemporary meaning of "tactical".

About 7 to 8 articles into link is an article titled "How To Choose A Knife". Directly below at "Legal Issues" is a hyperlink to American Knife and Tool Institute". They provide the basics of state laws via clicking on one's state on the provided map.

Important to some: The sheath or case can be important to also know about.

 

Last knife I bought (this summer?, I think so) was a Kershaw 3650



It is one of their Speedsafe knives that you can flick open with one finger. I only buy folding knives that can be easily flicked open. This new knife fit my hand just perfectly and I could easily roll the knife in my hand for forward pointing blade to rearward pointing blade in an instant. It is balanced just right for me.

It's blade is rather tiny at 3.5 inches, nevertheless it is so very useful. I saw it, it felt better than simply right, I bought it.

It didn't have a serrated edge so I used files and made my own serrations. Just forward of the hilt, I made 5 circular indentions leaving 4 distinct points 1/8th inch high each. The length of the serrated area is an inch.

You know, like this, except that I made all my cuts the same diameter on this new knife of mine.

When I put serrations into a knife I begin with a triangular file to get the divots going. Before I begin, I measure and mark where I'm gonna put each divot.

I cut into the blade a bit with the triangular file, then switch to a round chainsaw blade sharpening file. I dig all the divots the same size and stop when the resulting points are perfectly formed. I make my cuts from both sides of the blade. Some factory knife serrations are formed on only one side of the knife blade. I just don't like that.

For knives I just know I'm gonna break, I go cheap. I have one large folder (w/a lot of serrations) that I use when working on trees. I paid $5 for it in a pawn shop. If it breaks, it breaks. Use it for suckering in the garden. I can simply touch a tomato limb/sucker and the limb falls. Everybody has a few of these. However, they will never mean anything to you. I've put near-razor edges on very poor quality knives, but cheap blades snap -- can't have that.

A hard-working knife has to have decent steel and a thick spine. You do NOT want any sort of flimsy blade.

This Kershaw wasn't cheap-cheap and it wasn't one of the "made in Anerica" Kershaws -- I have three or so of the "Made in America" Kershaws. This new Kershaw fit my hand so super-well, that I couldn't stop my self from buying it. The thing holds a darned good edge -- as best as I need (will cut paper). I've got a Spanish pocket knife, with of course Spanish steel, and a man can shave with that puppy. I don't carry that one around very much. It's a bit on the heavy side. It's not as handy as my Kershaws. When carrying the Spanish, I feel good -- must say. Oh, dear lord, I'd not want to be stabbed or slashed with that Spanish! It will slice to the bone for fun and recreation.

These Kershaws are light and feel right and everybody likes them. The higher-end Kershaws are made in America. Buy American! (It's my belief that my American-made Kershaws hold a better edge.) Most folk have their favorite manufacturer. Top features for me are how does it feel in my hand and what kind of an edge will it hold. I've a custom folding knife that I've never gotten an edge on its blade that I truly liked -- but by-god if it doesn't have one thick spine.
.